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| Home |
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| Gossary of Terms |
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| B - C: |
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Backset: The distance from the edge of the door to the center of the hole drilled for your entry set knob, lever or deadbolt. |
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Casing: A wooden trim around doors that covers seam between jamb and wall. It has a strong impact on the overall style, appearance, and proportion of door opening as well as the overall style of your home's interior. On the practical side, it conceals the gap between the door frame (called a jamb) and the rough opening and helps to hold the frame in the opening. Casing can be relatively plain such as square-edge design or detailed, such as colonial-style, French-style, Asian-style or Mexican-style molding. |
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| Cylinder Bore: |
| Refers to a machining procedure that requires a round hole to accommodate a standard entry set. The standard diameter of the hole is 2-1/8" drilled in a door for an entry set knob, lever or deadbolt. |
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| Bore Measurements |
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Fit Template to Door |
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Drilling the Holes |
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| Prepare Fit for Latchplate |
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Install Lockset |
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| H - J: |
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Hinges: The metal objects that attach your door to the jamb, normally with screws. They can be made from brass, steel, iron or other metals. |
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In Swing: The wood that surrounds the door unit. This is your frame to which the door unit (door, doors, and/or doors and sidelights) is attached. Jamb is a part of a door frame that runs vertically between the header and sill. Jamb extensions or casing can be used to create a frame that matches the depth of existing walls. The top member of a door frame consists of a head jamb, two side jambs and a threshold or sill. |
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Jambs: The wood that surrounds the door unit. This is your frame to which the door unit (door, doors, and/or doors and sidelights) is attached. Jamb is a part of a door frame that runs vertically between the header and sill. Jamb extensions or casing can be used to create a frame that matches the depth of existing walls. The top member of a door frame consists of a head jamb, two side jambs and a threshold or sill. |
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| L: |
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| Left-Hand: |
The Term used to describe which way a door is hung on the jamb. As viewed from outside, the side the hinges are on and the door swing into the house. |
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| Right-Hand: |
Term used to describe which way a door is hung on the jamb. As viewed from the outside, the side the hinges are on and the door swings into the house. |
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| Lintel: |
| Decorative carving on the wall just above the door. |
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| Lock-Bored: |
| The Term "Bored Lock" describes how
the lock fits into round holes which are bored or drilled
into the face and edge of the door. It's an assembly of a
tube-like casing and its inner locking mechanism. Bored cylindrical
lock is one in which a hole must be drilled into the face
of the door, as opposed to the edge of the door (as is the
case with a mortise lock). Typically, the hole is sized from
1.5 inches to 2.125 inches and is centered 2.5 inches to 5
inches from the leading edge of the door. The bored cylindrical
lock owes its existence to discovering a more cost effective
method of locking doors. The previous norm, the mortise lock,
is a more complex device, and its higher manufacturing cost
as well as its more labor intensive installation made the
bored cylindrical lock an ideal substitute, both in price
and functionality. The great majority of locks now in use
on residences are bored locks. |
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| Example Bored Lock |
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Example Bored Lock |
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Example Bored Lock |
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| Lock-Mortise: |
Term "Mortise Lock" describes how the lock case fits into a rectangular shaped cavity in the edge of a door. This type of lock is enclosed within the edge of a door, so that it cannot be seen or removed when the door is closed. Mortise lock is one which requires a pocket, or mortise, to be cut into the door, cabinet door, or piece of furniture into which the lock is installed. Typically mortise locks have been used on older buildings before the advent of bored cylindrical locks, but in more recent times they have become a staple of commercial construction and higher end residences. The parts included in the typical mortise lock are the lock body (the part which is installed inside the door); the lock trim (which may include any number of different designs of knobs, levers, handle sets and pulls); and the keyed mortise cylinder which operates the locking/unlocking function of the lock body.
Installation of the mortise lock cannot be done practically by the average home owner since it is labor intensive and requires a working knowledge of basic woodworking tools. Many installation specialists utilize a mortising jig which makes the actual cutting of the pocket a precise operation, but the subsequent installation of the external trim may prove to be problematic if the installer is inexperienced.
Although the installation of the mortise lock actually weakens the structure of the door, it does offer more versatility to the external trim and to the functionality of the lock. Where the common bored cylindrical lock lacks the architecture required for ornate or solid cast knobs and levers, the mortise lock can accommodate heavier return springs and more solid internal mechanisms to make this possible. Further, the mortise lock will commonly accept a wide range of other manufacturers' cylinders and keyways so that it may conform to existing lock hardware on site.
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| Mortise Lock Mechanism |
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Mortise Trim |
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Mortise Trim |
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| Lockset: |
| The
complete set of locking hardware mechanism for a door such
as Mortise Lock or Bored Lock. |
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| Bored Lock |
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Mortise Lock |
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Mortise Lock Trim |
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| L: |
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Machining: The preparation for the entry set so that it will operate properly in the door (see Cylinder Bore, Lock-Bored and Lock-Mortise). |
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Measure Arched (Round Top) Door:
Measuring an Arched Door (slab): To measure arched or round top doors is a little more involved than measuring standard rectangle doors.
- First take the standard Width measurement of the slab.
- Then, measure the Height from the bottom up to the beginning of the arch (Height B).
- Next, measure the Height from the bottom to the peak of the arch in the very middle (Height A).
- Using arts & crafts paper (cardboard or poster board) trace a simple but precise outline of the arch or round top opening. Trace the arch at the location on your existing jamb where the arched top of the door will actually be located when in the closed position.
Please mail us the paper with the outline. This will ensure that you door will fit precisely into your existing opening. Please feel free to contact us (1-800-343-9463). We will be happy to work with you on any of these details.
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| Door (slab) Measurements |
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Rough Opening Measurements |
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Measuring a Rough Arched Opening:
Provide template: Make an exact duplicate of door rough opening. Usually two persons are required to make a good template.
Kraft Paper Method:
- First take a standard Width measurement of the opening across the empty space.
- Then, measure the Height from the bottom up to the beginning of the arch (Height B).
- Next, measure the Height from the bottom to the peak of the arch in the very middle (Height A).
- Using cardboard or poster board, trace a simple but precise outline of the arch or round top opening. Trace the arch along the wall where the arched top pre-hung door unit will actually be placed. This outline on paper will need to be mailed to us. It will ensure that your pre-hung door will fit precisely into the existing opening.
We also require a measurement of the wall thickness. The wall thickness is needed to determine depth of door jambs. Your door will be made approximately 3/16" smaller on the width and 1/2" shorter on the height of your actual measurements. It'll minimize the amount of trimming (if any) you or your builder will have to perform during the installation process. Please feel free to contact us (1-800-343-9463). We will be happy to work with you on any of these details.
Tip: One Person should hold a large sheet of heavy arts & crafts paper across the arch top of the door. Tape can be used to aid in stretching the paper tightly over front site. Or, the paper can be taped to plywood or stiff cardboard while drawing the outline, then removing it before mailing it to us. The second person marks the outline of the edge of the door opening with a soft pencil as accurately as possible.
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Measure Rectangle Door:
Measuring a Door (slab): To determine the size of your replacement door you will need to measure your old door exactly. For double doors, taking a measurement of one slab is sufficient. We only need three measurements: 1) Width, 2) Height and 3) Thickness of your old door. |
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| Door (slab) Measeurements |
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Rough Opening Measurements |
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Measuring a Rough Opening (Rectangular):
For pre-hung doors and entire entrance units requiring a jambs or frames, we need the measurements of your rough opening. Rough opening measurements are to be taken both horizontally and vertically.
It is easiest to do this when there is no door installed. If a pre-hung door or old entrance unit occupies the current rough opening the measurements should be taken only after removing any and all casing and moldings which will prevent you from seeing the actual rough opening surrounding the door.
Measure the actual wall opening in which pre-hung door will be installed. Measure the opening's width across the empty space. After that, measure the opening's height as well as the wall thickness. The wall thickness is needed to determine depth of door jambs. Your door will be made approximately 3/16" smaller on the width and shorter on the height of your actual measurements. It'll minimize the amount of trimming (if any) you or your builder will have to perform during the installation process.
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Moldings: A decorative wooden strip used for ornamentation, carving or finishing. |
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| Moldings Samples |
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Mortise: An elaborate machining process for special entry sets called a mortise lock (see also Lock-Mortise). |
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Mull Cap: Interior and exterior trim for seam between door and sidelight. |
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| Muntons/ Mullions: |
Wooden
trim that holds panels of glass in the door which defines a
a French door style, such as five light, ten light, etc. |
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| R: |
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Rough Openings: Opening in the wall for your door and/or sidelights before any framing material has been applied. This space must be slightly larger then the total size of the door and frame together (see also "rough opening for rectangular door" and/ or "rough opening for arched door" |
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T-Astragal: Vertical piece of wooden molding that fits between double doors to provide an effective weather seal. It is attached to the inactive door of a double door unit. It houses the flush bolts. Examples below. |
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| T-Astragal between double doors. |
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T-Astragal cross-section. |
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